Corona in Guatemala

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Day 1-8 For more: https://www.facebook.com/pg/carin.steen.artis

The plan was all set out for Sunday, March 29^th. I would have had my suitcase packed for my trip back to Spain later that day, but first I would get up before dawn to walk to San Bartolomé Becerra, the small town on the outskirts of Antigua where I used to live. Here, on the fifth Sunday of lent, one of Antigua's largest procession leaves the church after mass at 5 am. No less than 90 carriers are needed to carry the platform with a baroque statue of Jesus bearing the cross. A total of 7,000 bearers called cucuruchos and 85 turnos make up the logistics. Signing up starts way back in November and often involves hours of waiting in line. But people don't mind the line, nor the inscription fee. Participating is considered a great honour for many Guatemalans.

There is something magical about those nights before the main processions. Streets are closed off and whole families stay up all night to make the famous and fabulous sawdust carpets. Others sell coffee, sandwiches or any other kind of food imaginable. Or rent out their bathrooms in that wonderful entrepreneurial spirit of Guatemalans making a buck out of any event.

Thousands of people, very young, adolescents, middle-aged and the elderly, fill the streets that are more crowded than any time during the day. The atmosphere is magical. The surrealness of the early hour combined with the smell of incense and delicious food, the colourful carpets no one would ever dare to step on and the anticipation the procession to come... It is truly special and for many people here a deeply spiritual event.

But that was before Corona.

This year Easter was cancelled, something no one could ever have foreseen. Not only did Antigua miss out on the revenue about a million visitors would have brought in, the fact that the town's main religious event had to be celebrated in solitude has been a big blow to many. 

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On the bright side, Guatemala as a nation has reacted incredibly well in this crisis. The brand new president Alejandro Giammattei has stepped up as a real leader, making unpopular but brave decisions. Even before the first case was detected (March 14), all flights from Europe were stopped short. On Monday the 16^th, the last flights from North America were allowed in and the country went under lock-down. Social distancing was highly recommended, schools were closed and public transportation suspended. On March 22^nd, a 4pm - 4am curfew was added, prohibiting anyone without a valid reason out on the streets. The police is actively patrolling the streets and being caught will land your butt in jail with a hefty fine to pay. All stores that remain open have modified their business hours and the bigger stores have carried out a number of measures to protect the customers and employees, such as an obligation to wear a face mask, keeping distance in line, limiting the number of customers and having disinfectant gel available at the entrance and other strategic places. La Bodegona, the one and only famous supermarket in town, has even placed a bin outside with basic necessities from which those in need can take and to which those who can, can donate.

Wearing a face mask is obligatory as of today. A lot has been said about the usefulness of wearing a mask, but I guess if everyone does, it probably helps. And it doesn't hurt, if used properly. Most people were wearing masks anyway, but now you can and will be fined if you don't. I just went out to run an errand and was struck by how much the scene has changes in such a short time. The traffic is as light as it was when I lived here about 25 years ago. Parking is no longer a problem, neither is crossing the street. The lines in front of the banks are still there and actually longer than ever because of the distance between people. And yes, except for one, everybody was wearing a mask. And no, there is no shortage of masks. Within days after the lock-down, street vendors were selling homemade masks on every corner. Now you can get them in about every store, of any design possible. As well as disinfecting gel or anything else for that matter, even toilet paper! The only thing not available for a week was alcohol, during the whole Easter holiday, normally the time of the year to go to the beach or river and have a drink (that is, those who don't spend Easter in Antigua). But this year the beaches were closed and the sale of alcohol strictly forbidden.

So now the numbers. As of yesterday April 12^th, there were 131 active cases, 19 recovered and 5 deceased, making the total of 156. And that is, compared to other countries, not bad at all. Of course it is impossible to say if this is the result of measures taken, which are stricter and taken sooner than those in many European countries. Or whether the number will stay this low. Because one thing is very clear here in Guatemala: social distancing and quarantining is a privilege. Social distancing is not possible when you live in a shack with an entire family. Many people here live from day to day and will starve to death before dying of Covid 19. And not everybody sticks to the rules. Many markets in small towns have been operating as usual -up until now- and there are always those individuals who challenge authorities. Families with a Covid infected members have received death threats. In El Peten, a couple that owned a store was shot dead because they refused to sell alcohol. And about 500 families thought the rules didn't apply to them when they decided to spend a week at the beach anyway (they were sent back). As in any country, there has been opposition against the measures taken, but all in all, the overwhelming majority of the people is acting in a very responsible and solidarity way.

But. Guatemala is a developing country. Two emergency hospitals have been built, but as I understand, there are only about a hundred ventilators in the whole country. Poverty here is tremendous under normal circumstance. Now, with so many people laid off... What if food becomes scarce and prices surge? And how to wash your hands if there is no water? How to keep your distance when you live in a slum? What about the planes full of deported Guatemalans that the USA keeps sending, some of the deported confirmed Covid cases? What about people illegally crossing the border with Mexico, where the virus hasn't been taken as seriously by the president as it has in Guatemala? What if...???

So many ifs, but I guess only time will tell. I do hope we can keep up those numbers low here in Guatemala. I also think that this country might come out of this crisis stronger and better than some other “developed” countries Well, let's see. As for now, I'm stuck here in Guatemala, and quite happy about it. And funnily, what I miss most, now that everyone is wearing a mask, is seeing people's smiles.

Stay safe, stay home. 

Daily free Corona Mini Art paintings for someone somewhere on this planet!

Day 1-8 For more: https://www.facebook.com/pg/carin.steen.artist